August 14, 2011
Drive By Fry
A new chicken “shack” in Westside has a pedigreed cook behind the fryer and real lard in the larder!
By Nancy Staab
When we heard that versatile young chef Julia LeRoy (who earned a cult following at hipster haven Bookhouse Pub and also counts five-star Seeger’s on her resume) was turning her hand to fried chicken, we knew she would turn out some mighty tasty fare.
We checked out the offerings at Julia LeRoy's take-out only counter, LeRoy’s Chicken, in Westside (next to a La Fonda and Atlanta Humane Center) and found her fried chicken and fixings utterly soul-satisfying and full of Southern love. The hormone-free, locally sourced birds from Springer Farms are fried in old-fashioned lard and are delivered with a dark golden, super-crispy crust. We don’t know what special flavorings and secret spices, LeRoy puts in her batter but this chicken has a seriously delicious, slightly spicy kick. It’s crunchy/spicy on the outside and perfectly juicy and plump on the inside. Just as good were the homey sides: a voluptuous mac’n’cheese and some of the best-flavored collard greens we’ve had in a while: served with their pot likker and smoky bits of bacon and rendered with a nice texture: not too limp nor faded and stripped of their nutrients. These greens were still a deep green. We will have to go back soon to sample the hand-cut fries, biscuits and the fried chicken liver sandwich on rye, knocked back with a Mexican Coke or Royal Palmer. Our only request: we’d love a home-baked dessert, cake or pie to top off our takeout box of 2-8 pieces! FYI: LeRoy’s stand is currently open until 11PM, but she’s considering offering extended late night hours for club kids and night owl with serious fried cravings.
1021 Howell Mill Road, Hours: 10AM-11PM daily, 404.872.7888, http://www.facebook.com/leroysfriedchicken