June 2, 2012
The Latest News from the Fashion World
By Nancy Staab
Louis Vuitton Trumps Hermès, Marchesa Lands a Contemporary Label, French Vogue’s Carine Roitfeld Goes on Camera & More Couture Catnip
Louis Vuitton Tops the Global Luxury Brands List
Millward Brown Optimor’s 2012 BrandZ study just listed LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton as the world’s most valuable brand in the luxury industry category, valued at $25.9 billion. This puts the French house a head above Hermès, in which LVMH also owns a stake. Hermès was ranked second with a value of $19.1 billion. Swiss watch brand Rolex came in third. The rest of the top ten include, in this order: Chanel, Gucci, Prada, Cartier, Hennessy Cognac, Moet & Chandon, and Burberry in tenth place. To qualify, all luxury companies had to be public and results were based on interviews with consumers and analysis of company performance. When analyzed across all 13 industry categories (apparel, cars, finance, technology, oil & gas, etc.), Louis Vuitton came in 21st place, with Apple, the maker of the iPad and other covetable technologies, in first place and valued at $182.9 billion. The study asked, “Is the era of brand power coming to an end?” and answered, “Hardly,” pointing to the “spectacular double-digit growth” of companies like Hermès and Rolex.
Marchesa To Launch a Contemporary Label
Marchesa is known for its impossibly romantic evening gowns with layers of ruffles, beading, embroideries and even dramatic trains. Recently the line launched a complementary bridal line, an accessories line of gorgeous rock crystal-clasped evening bags, a cocktail line called Notte, and a tabletop collection with Lenox. But now the design duo behind Marchesa, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, will stretch their fashion talents with a contemporary line in which they will, presumably, have to forego some of their trademark embellishment and frou-frou for a slightly less formal, more contemporary daywear collection. The new label, which is yet unnamed, will be produced in partnership with LF USA (they also hold licensing agreements with trendy labels Vena Cava and Rachel Zoe) and is expected to launch during pre-fall 2012. With Marchesa’s built-in Hollywood clientele, we predict lots of red carpet sightings when the new line launches.
Former French Vogue Editor-In-Chief on Film
Sleek, edgy, former French Vogue editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld, nearly always clad in trademark black, has long been the dark, Gallic foil/frenemy to American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour. Now the French editrix has leveled the playing field in one more way by scoring a documentary film deal in which her trés chic life will be captured on celluloid a la Wintour’s The September Issue. The film, entitled Mademoiselle C, follows Roitfeld as she launches her much-buzzed-about new magazine CR, set to launch in September. The film was recently shopped in Cannes for a distributor. It seems Roitfeld has at least one high-profile fashion fan, Karl Lagerfeld, on whose arm she appeared at the Cannes AmFAR Gala. Expect several juicy fashion cameos in the documentary to come.
Japan Vogue’s Anna Dello Russo Lands an H&M Accessories Collection
And speaking of fashion editors with singular style, Anna Dello Russo, the flamboyant editor of Japan Vogue and frequent subject of street fashion photography, has landed a capsule collection with masstige brand H&M. Her jewelry/accessories line is not set to launch until Oct. 4, but sneak peek photos of the product reveal a pile of gold and turquoise studded statement jewelry (Very Capri, circa Jackie O.), bejeweled sunglasses and minaudieres, and her signature, sky-high heels, described as “vertiginous!”
Tod’s Group to Re-Launch Schiaparelli Label
Diego Della Valle, owner of Tod’s Group, has already successfully re-launched one heritage luxury house, the shoe purveyor Roger Vivier. Now, at the opening of the new Schiaparelli and Prada exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, NYC, Della Valle has announced that he is reviving Elsa Schiaparelli’s Paris-based fashion house. The surrealist designer was famous for her “shocking pink” palette, her lobster-print dress, and mutton-chop hats, but beyond all the flamboyant theatricality, lay riveting clothes that still translate in today’s world, maybe more so. Her daring clients included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Deitrich and Greta Garbo. Della Valle acquired the rights to the Schiaparelli archives in 2007, so the new line will no doubt have close links to the designer’s original inspirations. Expect the first catwalk show next March and speculation is still strong about what designer might take on the Schiaparelli mantle, with rumored candidates including the exceedingly talented John Galliano. Della Valle says that a strong emphasis on accessories, and perfume and cosmetics will also be components of Schiaparelli 2.0. The new designer will be announced in October.